Versión en Español
Compiled by
Ricardo García Lastres
Anybody that sometimes has seen a
knife with a name or initials engraved in its blade, probably have
thought that, although it is a customized work and made on order, surely it
would not be within reach of all due to the complexity of the
processes necessary to obtain it.
Nevertheless it is possible to do it in simple form and without
special equipment. Basically this one is the procedure that is
used habitually in all the engravings of blades or on any metallic
surface, with exception of stainless steel.
The next procedure will describe how the
engraving of letters is obtained on a blade. This method has been
used by the author with excellent results during long time. A
work of quality is obtained and with the advantage of being easily attainable, it is simple, it does not
consume too much time nor it requires machines or instruments of
high complexity.
The procedure I describe here allows to record
names, letters or numbers in knife blades, daggers, etc., by means
of the use of a mask or template applied on the blade, surrounded by a
frame that delimits the zone of engraving. This one is made with mordant or etching acid that
attacks the surface of the blade, and produces a surface of different
color and texture in the beginning, and a bas-relief next, depending
on the time of attack of the mordant.
This method only can be used in steel that oxidizes or rust, not being
possible to engrave stainless steel blades.
Since this method is artistic, it is recommended to try it on
some blade of little importance or low price to practice the different
passages before making it in some knife of importance.
The necessary materials for the engraving of the
blade are the following ones:
- cotton
- alcohol
- fine steel wool (virulana)
- transferable letters (LetraSet or similar)
- wide plastic insulating tape and of good
thickness
- round punch of matching size to the used letters
- cutter or sharp knife for paper
- rule
- newspaper or paper sheets
- plastic tweezer or similar
- mordant special for steel
Materials to use
In the first place it is necessary to carry out a
careful cleaning of the blade in order to undress it of grease and dirt.
If it had oxide or rust spots, eliminate them by means of steel wool or fine sandpaper.
The cleaning of the blade is fundamental, and the
success of the process depends on it. A bad cleaning of the surface to
engrave can spoil the engraving and ruin the blade at issue.
For it, wash throughly and take any grease
out of the blade with detergent and fine steel wool. The surface
must be without oxide or dirt spots, and so polished as it is
possible.
Dry the blade and, with the cotton damped in alcohol, clean the blade again, taking care of of not touching with the fingers the part of the blade where the engraving will be made.
After cleaning the blade, the wished letters will be transferred.
The letters or numbers to use will have to be transferable,
LetraSet type, of a style and size to pleasure.
In the market two transferable fonts exist fundamentally,
destined to scholastic or graphical use. Nevertheless only one
of them is apt for this work.
It is necessary to use letters that are transferred as a
silhouette and not as a transparent rectangle with the letter printed
on it, since this would not produce the engraving of the letter but
of the rectangle.
This is particularly applicable to guards and drawings, that are
transferred like a "scotch tape" with the drawing on it.
The location of the letters in the blade will have to be made
leaving enough margin to be able to fix the protective frame on
the blade; this is, not too much near the button nor of the back.
The traditional location of the engravings is in superior half
of the blade, and in half near the button of the same one, of the side
that it does not have recorded the trade mark.
Positioning of the Letters
Transfer the letters as it indicates the
product, with a ball-point pen, and then rub smoothly with the
protective sheet (like silk paper, that comes with the letters) to finish fixing the
letter to the blade. You will have to verify that the letter
has been transferred and fixed perfectly, that it has not air bubbles and that it has not any part broken.
In case that the letter is not in perfect conditions, it is
advisable to retire it and to return to transfer it. To do so use the sharp end of the cutter and scrap smoothly, without scratching the knife blade, the letter to eliminate. Do not to use
alcohol or similar, since the other letters can be ruined.
In case the letters do not adhere correctly because the surface of the blade is too polished, smoothly rub it with fine emery paper or steel wool and return to clean with alcohol.
The following step consists of creating a frame around the transferred letters to delimit the zone of attack of the mordant.
For it plastic self-adhesive tape will be used, of good thickness and wide enough to cover the used letters and that a rim of at least 5 millimeters fixes around them is left. It is advisable the use of plastic tape for industrial use, that is obtained in agricultural stores, in wide of several centimeters.
Measure the length of the transferred letters and cut a tape piece 2 cm longer. Fix this tape to a waxed or siliconated paper (from which it can be taken off later) and with
the punch to make two perforations to a distance so that there are seen the first and the last transferred letter.
First step of frame cutting - Perforations
By means of the ruler and the cutter, cut joining both perforations, eliminating the tape piece that is among them.
Second step of frame cutting - Joining cut
A rectangular space with rounded ends must be obtained as
wide as the letters transferred to the blade. Make this cutting with care, without going of the ends, since there will not have to be left cuts in the tape where the mordant could introduce.
Third step of frame cutting - Verification
Take off the tape from the waxed paper and,
taking care to not deforming or stretching it, fix it on
the blade.
The letters will have to be centered in the perforation of the tape.
Review that the tape is correctly adhered and without air
bubbles in all its extension, specially the internal perimeter of the
perforation, that is where the mordant will be put.
Fourth step of frame cutting - Fixing of the frame
In order to complete this step, the reamining surface of the blade will
be cover with common plastic tape or paper, to avoid that the fumes of the mordant attack the blade.
Also is advisable to protect the handle of the knife.
This can be made with pieces of newspaper fixed on the
blade with the same tape.
Fifth step of frame cutting - Protection of the blade
ATTENTION:
the frame will not be made by joining or superposing
several plastic tape pieces, since the mordant would filter through the unions and spoil the blade.
Having transferred the letters, placed the frame
and protected the rest of the blade, it is time to start with the
engraving.
Place the blade horizontally, on a newspaper. Place pieces of paper underneath the edge of the blade so that it is well levelled.
With a dropper or syringe place a small amount of mordant
on the surface to engrave.
It will have to be left a "contained drop" within the frame,
without exceeding the limits.
Clean to any excess or spilling with a cotton piece.
Mordant working
The mordant will smoothly attack the surface of the steel, blackening
it, producing small gas bubbles, and soon darkening itself until
taking brown color.
When one notices that the mordant does not attack more, absorb it with cotton
smoothly, WITHOUT TOUCHING the STEEL SURFACE, and placing a new amount of mordant.
Repeat this process until obtaining the wished depth or until
you notice that the letters start to give off because of the heat
generated by the attack.
ATTENTION:
- Avoid any contact between the mordant and the clothes, skin or with the eyes.
In case that happening, wash immediately with abundant running water.
- In order to manipulate the cottons to use a plier or plastic tweezer.
- Do not to inhale the fumes that are given off during the
attack of the steel: they are toxic.
- Take care of that the damp cottons used to eliminate the mordant used do not touch the exposed blade of the knife: throw them within a glass container.
In order to end the process, first wash
the blade under running water, until eliminating any rest
of mordant that could remain.
Peel off and throw away tapes and the frame.
With a cotton wet in alcohol rub to eliminate the letters
transferred until leaving the steel clean.
Engraving without polishing
If it is desired, smoothly polish with fine
steel wool the bottom of the engraving to eliminate the black oxide
layer left by the mordant.
Apply to a fine layer of oil or petroleum jelly.
Finalized and polished engraving
For any question referred to this process or
to obtain the used formulation of the mordant, please click here and complete the form that opens.
(It is free, I do not charge anything to give the
formula of the mordant, I only want to know who is interested
and how was the work done)
Also you can send your comments or experiences and
photos to me of your experiences to add them to this page.
Daniel Escasany Orfebre
Dedicated silversmith to recreate knives, typical
daggers and facones of the colonial time, beginning of century and modern
using the techniques of traditional silversmithing. Also he
makes platería criolla and urban, as well as pieces by
order on exclusive designs of the client.
Aceros de Hispania
Knives, swords, sabers and
guns, handmade in Spain by Tooth, Aitor, Grandson, Laurona,
Bermejo, Abandoned, Gladius and Gamo.
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